Tobermory and Flowerpot Island

Aug 7, 2019

We awoke this morning with the sounds of Canada Geese honking as they paddled along the shoreline behind our campsite.  Pretty Canadian eh?  We had not set up camp too much last night so after cleaning up and stowing our things, we were ready to move.  We had a reservation for the Chi Chewan ferry for the 9:30 sailing but were required to be there one hour prior.  While we waited in the parking lot, two couples came and wanted to see the trailer and asked many questions about it.  We handed out another Armadillo business card.  

Being from Vancouver Island ferry riding is part of our culture so as we went through the gates it was like déjà vu. The ferry was similar to some of the older style BC ferries.  The upholstery and chairs were modern, clean and bright. The fares are slightly less than the fares in BC.  The breakfast meals were good portions and priced right. The trip to Tobermory, on the northern tip of the Bruce Peninsula, is about one hour and forty-five minutes.  Crossing Lake Huron is like crossing the Strait of Georgia. As we relaxed on the ferry and read the many brochures about things to do and see in Tobermory, we made the decision to spend some time in the town. We found a RV parking lot a few blocks from the downtown core and walked in.  

Bruce Peninsula is a National Park and includes the Fathom Five National Marine Park.  This Marine Park includes the famous Flowerpot Island.  Initially I had planned for us to kayak to the Island but when we arrived in Tobermory it was evident that it would be safer and more time efficient to take a tour boat to the island.  

Two tour companies operate out of Tobermory.  They feature large glass bottom boats that tour to two sunken shipwrecks that are lying on the floor of the lake in shallow water. These ships were old wooden schooners used for hauling freight on the Great Lakes in the late 1800s. They both shipwrecked at the end of the narrow Big Tub Harbour.  Tobermory and the Fathom Five National Marine Park boast 22 shipwrecks in its boundaries and is a favorite scuba diving area.  Because of the clear water these wrecks are easily viewed from the glass bottom boats. The tour then takes you to Flowerpot Island, circumnavigates the island, and then the passengers can disembark to explore the many hiking trails, caves and to see the unique rock formations.  

We bought our tickets for the tour as we were walking into town and were fortunate to buy the last two available tickets for the 1:15 boat. This gave us time to buy a light lunch, pack our bathing suits and walking shoes and be on time for the tour. (The information center on the ferry had told us that swimming at Flowerpot Island is a “must”.) Our boat held 120 people and was one of the larger boats in the fleet.  There are about four boats in each company so when we arrived at our docks on the island we were amazed at how many people were walking on the island, swimming on the various shorelines.  We learned later that Parks Canada has strict controls as to how many people can access the island each day. 

Our plan was to visit the Flowerpot rock formations and then swim for a few hours in the beautiful water.  The Flowerpot rock formations are developed over the centuries of erosion and because of the different densities; the rocks are worn to look like Flowerpots on pedestals above the water line.   We quickly changed into our bathing suits and clambered over the rocks to the water below.  Many others were swimming near by.  Debbie was the first one in and after getting used to the cool water it was wonderful.  The water was not that cold and because it was so clear it was a joy to swim in.  We stayed in the water for about two hours and then it was time to make our way back for the return trip to Tobermory.  

When we were standing in line in Tobermory to embark, we met Al and Linda from Calgary.  We talked briefly and when we got onto the island they went for a long hike while we swam. They were sitting at the docking area when we came back from swimming and we sat and talked some more.  Al is a retired accountant and Linda was an MLA in Calgary until the last election.  She lost the election by six votes.  Linda has been in politics most of her adult life.  Linda preferred to sit below decks, because of a neck injury, but Al, Debbie and I sat on the upper decks.  Al suggested that the four of us have supper together in Tobermory as they were staying at a hotel there.

The Tobermory Brewing Company was the choice we made and it is obviously a popular pub/restaurant.  We asked for a table for four and were told that if Dave doesn’t show up with his party right away we could have his reserved table.  We crossed our fingers after the hostess called Dave’s name again and waited for five minutes. Sorry Dave – no show.  So we got a great table and we ordered beer and our food. Debbie and I shared a rack of ribs and fries and we sat for the next two hours talking and sharing stories of each other’s lives.  

It was a great evening but it was also time for us to head south.  We had reserved a campsite at the Macgregor Point Provincial Park, which was still almost a two-hour drive south.  We debated to stay in Tobermory overnight but instead started driving.  We chose the coastal roads so that we could enjoy the scenery, however, sunset was at 8:45. We knew we were passing through interesting towns and coastal communities that we would have to explore in daylight.  We arrived at our campsite at 9:55, the gatehouse closes at 10:00, the park attendant waved us through and told us to register in the morning. We quietly slipped into our campsite, crawled into bed for the night